Sunday, November 21, 2010

New York Strip Steak au Poivrade

     Poivrade is a very nice French classic sauce for beef or game.  Rich demi glace, peppery and a hint of cider vinegar is the renowned flavor.  There are three versions of this sauce.  One poivrade is strictly for game.  The poivrade in this recipe is meant to be served with beef. 
     Poivrade is not the same as Au Poive.  Au Poive is a different preparation and is not quite as refined as poivrade.
     Meat Stock Recipe:  Place veal bones, lamb bones, beef bones, pork bones, meat scraps into a large roasting pan.
     Add a few dollops of tomato paste.
     Add a mirepoix of some rustic un-peeled chopped carrot, celery and onion.
     Bake the mixture in a 350 degree oven, till the bones and vegetables caramelize to a dark brown color.  (Do not roast the mixture till it turns black!) 
     Stir the mixture occasionally, so it roasts evenly.
     After roasting, place the bones and mirepoix in a stock pot.
     Deglaze the roasting pan with water, while scraping the fond that is stuck to the pan with a spoon.
     Add the pan jus to the stock pot.
     Cover the bones with water.
     Bring the liquid to a boil over high heat.
     Reduce the temperature to medium low heat.
     Add a handful of parsley stalks.
     Simmer the stock pot for at least 4 hours.
     Add water occasionally to cover the bones.
     Strain the stock through a fine mesh sieve.
     Discard the bones and vegetables.
     Skim the grease off of the top of the meat stock.
     Let the meat stock set, till the sediment settles to the bottom of the container. 
     Carefully pour the the clean meat stock into a cecond container and leave the sediment in the first container. 
     Glace Viande Recipe:  (Meat Glaze)  Place the meat stock into a sauce pot over medium high heat.
     Add a small bouquet garni of bay leaf, thyme, chervil and marjoram. 
     Reduce the meat stock by half.
     At this point, the meat stock shoul be thick enough to glaze a spoon.  If it is not rich enough, reduce the meat stock till it can glaze a spoon.
     Strain the glace viande through a fine mesh sieve.
     This is a very rich glace viande that can be frozen in portions for later use. 
     Set the glace viande aside.      
     Classic Sauce Espagnole Recipe:  I have posted a few modern style recipes for sauce espagnole that were thickened with a blonde roux.  Those recipes were just a little bit better than a French brown sauce.  This espagnole recipe is by the book!
     Place veal bones, lamb bones, beef bones, pork bones, meat scraps and a few dollops of tomato paste with a rustic un-peeled mirepoix of carrot, celery and onion into a large roasting pan.
     Roast the mixture in a 350 degree oven till the bones and vegetables caramelize to a deep brown color.
     Place the bones and mirepoix into a stock pot.
     Deglaze the roast pan with water and add the jus to the stock pot.
     Cover the bones with water and bring to a boil over high heat.
     Turn the temperature to medium low heat and simmer for 4 hours.
     Add water occasionally to cover the bones.
     By now the meat stock should be a rich brown color.
     Skim the grease off of the top of the simmering meat stock.
     Make a brown roux with equal parts of unsalted butter and flour while constantly stirring over medium high heat.
     Do not stop stirring or the roux will scorch!
     Keep stirring as the roux changes color from blonde to tannish red color and to a brown color.
     Add enough of the brown roux to the meat stock pot to thicken the broth to a thin sauce consistency.
     Add about 1 ounce of tomato paste for every quart of broth in the stock pot.
     Simmer the thickened meat stock for one hour and stir it occasionally.
     Strain the thickened meat stock through a fine mesh strainer into a sauce pot.
     Discard the bones, meat scraps and vegetables.
     Add about 1/2 cup of sherry wine per quart of thickened meat sauce.
     Add a bouquet garni of bay leaf, chervil and thyme.
     Add a small handful of mushroom trimmings.
     Add a couple of chopped shallots.
     Add sea salt and black pepper.
     Simmer the sauce espagnole till it becomes a medium thin sauce consistency.
     Strain the espagnole sauce through a fine mesh strainer and set it aside.
     Steak Preparation:  Trim an aged 10 to 12 ounce New York Strip Steak of all fat and gristle so the steak is very lean.  \
     Season the steak with sea salt only.
     Poivrade Sauce Recipe:  Heat a sauce pot over medium heat.
     Add 2 pats of unsalted butter.
     Add 1 tablespoon of  finely chopped onion.
     Add 1 tablespoon of finely chopped carrots.
     Add a small handful of chopped mushrooms. 
     Stir and saute till the mushrooms, onions and carrots become lightly caramelized.
     Add 1 clove of chopped garlic.   
     Add 1/3 cup of apple cider vinegar.
     Add a pinch of sea salt. 
     Slowly simmer the vinegar.
     Add about 1/2 of a cup of sauce espagnole.     
     Add 1/2 cup of glace viande.     
     Simmer the sauce slowly over medium low heat for at least thirty minutes.
     After 30 minutes of simmering the sauce, add a few generous pinches of crushed black peppercorns.
     Simmer the poivrade for five minutes.
     Stir in 2 unsalted butter pats to finish the poivrade sauce.
     Strain the poivrade sauce through a fine sieve into a bowl and keep it warm.  (Do not make a poivrade sauce too far ahead of time or the black pepper will change its character if it is simmered for too long.  Add the black pepper late in the recipe.)
     NY Strip Steak au Poivrade Recipe:  Heat a saute pan over medium high heat.
     Add a small splash of olive oil.
     Add 2 pats of unsalted butter. 
     Add the NY strip steak.
     Flip the steak often so it cooks evenly. 
     Cook the steak to the desired temperature.  (Cooking a strip steak rare to medium rare is best for this recipe.) 
     Set the steak aside and allow it to rest for 1 minute.
     Set the steak on a plate.
     Pour the poivrade sauce over the steak.
     Accompaniments:  Serve with sauteed mushroom halves and julienne zucchini sauteed with olive oil, sea salt, black pepper and oregano.
     Pipe parsnip scallion creme potato duplexed with buttered mashed plain sweet potato with a star tipped pastry bag.
     Parsnip Scallion Mashed Potato Recipe:  Boil a peeled Russet potato in water over high heat.
     In a saute pan, blanch a handful of peeled parsnip slices in water and with 3 pats of unsalted butter over high heat.
     Allow the water evaporate in the parsnip pan.
     Reduce the temperature to medium heat.
     The butter and parsnips will be sizzling in the pan at this point.
     Saute and toss the parsnips, till golden colors appear.
     Drain the water from the soft cooked potato.
     Add the braised parsnips to the soft potato.
     Add a splash of cream.
     Add 4 pats of unsalted butter.
     Add sea salt and white pepper.
     Mash and whisk the parsnip potatoes till they are creamy and smooth.
     Stir in 2 to 4  thin sliced green tops of scallion .
     Spoon the parsnip scallion creme potato into an untipped pastry bag and keep it warm on a stove top.
     Mashed Sweet Potato Recipe:  Boil a sweet potato till it becomes tender. 
     Cool the potato enough so that it can be handled. 
     Use the back of a paring knife to peel off the skin. 
     Place the potato in a sauce pot over low heat. 
     Add 2 pats of unsalted butter. 
     Add a pinch of sea salt and white pepper. 
     Thoroughly mash the sweet potato.
     Load the potato into a star tipped pastry bag. 
     Duplex Potato Technique:  To duplex a pastry bag, flatten the star tipped pastry bag, with the buttered mashed sweet potato inside, on a counter top. 
     Carefully slide a second, un tipped pastry bag with the parsnip scallion mashed potato inside the mashed sweet potato bag. 
     Squeeze the two pastry bags as one through the shared star tip, so both kinds of potato are piped through the star tip at the same time. 
     This technique of duplexing is great for two complimentary potatoes of different color.
     This New York Steak au Poivrade is a classic entree in every sense of the word!  Peppery delicious!  The duplex potatoes are amazingly beautiful to look at as well as taste.  This potato was our menu potato at the last French restaurant I cooked in as a professional chef.  Customers loved this duplex potato combination.
     The mushrooms that I used for this poivrade recipe are small portabella mushrooms. 
     Shaved black truffle added to the finished poivrade sauce is a traditional way of serving poivrade too.
     The last time I had a New York strip steak poivrade was at the Eiffel Tower Restaurant at the Paris Casino in Las Vegas.  The only difference between this strip steak and the one at Paris is the spectacular view of the Las Vegas Strip and the Bellagio Fountains.  A good French Bordeaux is perfect for this elegant French entree.  If I may suggest, a Danish Bleu Cheese Souffle and a glass of champagne for the perfect appetizer before a poivrade steak.  I posted the Danish Bleu Souffle recipe a few months ago too.  I love French fine cuisine!  ...  Shawna

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